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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.